Recounting an Odishan Odyssey- Rewarding Journey to Less Known Sites of Attraction in Odisha

“Etota poth periye, eshechi tobu dujone…”- went the lyrics of the mesmerizing song Priyobrata was listening to from his iPod while Manisha, his fiancée seated beside him, looked out of the window of the cab they were travelling in- beholding the scenic beauty of rural Odisha. Indeed, the twain had journeyed a long way together- quite as the lyrics of the song by the Bangla band ‘Fossils’ suggested. As far as relationships are concerned, four years is a significantly long time in today’s fast world- Manisha often pondered.

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Priyobrata and Manisha were batch mates at the prestigious Kalinga Institute of Industrial Technology University (K.I.I.T.)- both being students of Electronics & Telecommunication Engineering. They had joined this institute in Odisha in August 2009, after clearing the tough entrance test, and now they had completed the exams of the seventh semester of their course. Priyobrata (or Priyo as his batch mates fondly called him) had secured a placement at IBM India recently- being the second in the entire batch to get a placement as yet. So, he was somewhat at ease now. Manisha too felt comforted at the thought that her fiancé has secured a foothold in the coveted IBM concern. However, she kept her fingers crossed in the hope of getting a suitable placement soon for her own self too.

With the seventh semester examinations being just over, followed by a week’s break, the students of the institute who stay boarded had mostly left for their homes. Priyo and Manisha had, however, planned to spend the vacation differently. Appalled at the thought of separation, the engaged duo had decided to hand in hand visit tourist destination spots not too far from their institute at Bhubaneswar.

Thus, they had decided to embark on following the trail leading to Ghatgaon in Keonjhar district- the abode of the Holy Goddess Tarini. The couple had boarded the Bhubaneswar-Howrah Jan Shatabdi Express from Bhubaneswar at early morning and had alighted at Jajpur-Keonjhar Road Station. Hiring a Scorpio vehicle from just outside the station complex, they zoomed off towards Ghatgaon.

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Breathtaking vistas welcomed them as they moved out of the small township of Jajpur-Keonjhar Road. Their eyes feasted on the lush greenery all around while catching glimpses of Odishan country life. After a four-hour ride they reached Ghatgaon. The Goddess Tarini residing here is a form of Goddess Durga- the divine Mother Goddess and the primeval source of all strength and energy. There are legends galore extolling the miracles and benevolence of the Goddess and a special one about how She choose to settle in this present abode of Hers.

As per this legend, Govinda Bhanja the son of Trilochan Bhanja, King of Keonjhar (of fifteenth century A.D.) and the commander in chief of the army of the king pledged to bring Maa Tarini, then residing in Puri, to his kingdom- as a reward from the King of Puri and upon the willingness of the Goddess. Govinda Bhanja prayed to Maa Tarini and the Mother agreed to oblige but with a condition- that She will go with him, following him, as long as Govinda Bhanja does not look back to see Her. Thus, the journey began. Govinda Bhanja kept track of the movement of the Goddess by the sound of the hoofs of the horse carrying Her. Upon entering the forest of Keonjhar, however, he could not hear the hoof sounds anymore. So, he became worried and curious and turned to look back. Hence, upon breaking of the condition set, the Goddess ceased to follow and settled at the very spot while turning to stone. Govinda Bhanja prayed to the Goddess for forgiveness but the Goddess reminded him of the condition set and instructed him to not lose heart, accept what was divinely ordained, and worship Her at that place.

Presently, a vermillion covered stone representing the Goddess resides beneath a tree under the open sky. Though the site is steeped in antiquity, the temple enclosing the shrine is a newly built one. Unlike other Odishan temples, here there is no covered Garba Griha or sanctum sanctorum. A story goes that time and again efforts to provide even a canopy over the form of the Goddess have been futile. So, taking this as a divine cue, the devotees have ceased to make any further efforts to construct a shade or covering structure for the sanctum.

There is a ‘wishing tree’ here also- on the trunk/branches of which believers tie sanctified red strings while praying for the fulfillment of their desires. As per custom, upon the realization of such cherished wishes, devotees need to revisit the shrine to offer a ‘thanksgiving Puja’ and untie a thread from the tree. 

Manisha promptly tied one such sacred string coming with some associated embellishments on the tree with a silent prayer on her lips. Priyo smiled- feeling quite convinced about what Manisha has wished for.

Temple of Goddess Tarini at Ghatgaon, Keonjhar

The two of them then visited the nearby Shiva temple to pay their obeisance to the consort of the Mother Goddess. Then, with their Puja being complete, they settled down at one of the many sweet shops thronging the area around the temple. After partaking in the Prasad offered at the temple, they decided to eat Chhana Poda being offered at the shop. This special Odishan sweet preparation comprises of dumplings made from semi burnt and sweetened cottage cheese. Several helpings of this delicious dish made up for their breakfast- as they had been fasting since daybreak for offering the Puja. There are many shops around here selling Puja paraphernalia and pictures of Goddess Tarini and the presiding deities of various other pilgrimage destinations. Manisha purchased a framed picture of Maa Tarini from one of the stalls as a souvenir.

With minds refreshed, and with a sense of purity and bliss surging through their being, the two of them bid adieu to the abode of Maa Tarini and made their move towards Sana Ghagara- a scintillating waterfall of Keonjhar.

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Soon they arrived at the Sana Ghagara water fall situated at about 6 kms away from Keonjhar town- the Keonjhar/Kendujhar district headquarters.  This is a picturesque perennial waterfall where the Machha Kandana, a small river that is a tributary of the Baitarani River, descends from a height of about 100 ft. in two drops.

The Sana Ghagara Water Fall

 Spread over a hilly tract with characteristic mixed deciduous and miscellaneous type of forest vegetation, the place is well suited for outing and picnicking. Earnest endeavours by the concerned authorities with regard to beautification of the place are also visible. There are manicured gardens and a park set up for fostering recreation of visitors.

Priyo and Manisha savoured a hearty time of togetherness in the heavenly yet uncrowded environs. Getting drenched by going close to the flow of the waterfall is a coveted joy indeed! Falling from a relatively low height, the Sana Ghagara’s water fall can be enjoyed more thoroughly than the other arguably more famous waterfall- Bada Ghagara lying on the same river 3 kms further downstream. 

The Lake below the Sana Ghagara Falls

  There is a picturesque lake formed by the waters at the base of the falls. The couple went for pedalled boating in the lake. This is yet another experience to cherish amidst the scenic locales.

Among such bountifulness, however, a sole disappointment was posed by the non-availability of any proper eatery. Manisha wished she had brought along some grub. Efforts to look for some suitable place to sit and lunch proved futile- though they could get hold of some snacks. Anyway, upon consummation of experiencing the wonders of the place to their heart’s content, the duo decided to move on and take their meal at Keonjhar town.

While bidding the place goodbye Manisha purchased a few pieces of local sandalwood (yes, sandalwood trees grow here as well!) from a village belle selling them. And she got them at an amazingly low price!

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 Post lunch the two were on their way to Jajpur- the abode of Biraja Mata- yet another form of the Mother Goddess whose shrine occupies a place of special importance among the revered Hindu pilgrimage places.

While traversing the Keonjhar region many a dilapidated structure of yesteryears- remains of buildings- forts, towers, lakes with embankments- set up in ancient construction style- came to view. Priyobrata wondered whether the maintenance and wellbeing of all these sites were overseen by bodies like the Archeological Survey of India.

Remnants of Ancient Structures in Keonjhar Region

En route to Jajpur the Baitarani River has to be crossed. This is regarded as a holy river whose name is metaphorically linked with the celestial river that departed souls have to cross before reaching heaven- as per Hindu religious belief. The land of Goddess Biraja or the Biraja Kshetra, which one enters upon crossing the Baitarani River, is held as a very sacred region that is strewn with age-old temples and other sites of immense religious significance.

All the while Manisha had kept on taking photos of the scenery around on her cellphone’s camera. She never missed to take a few shots of the venerated river too. She had been doing this since morning- quite tirelessly indeed! 

The Baitarani River En Route to Jajpur

Towards evening they reached Jajpur town and came to the Biraja Temple complex, located about 2.5 km from the town’s bus stand. Both of them stood spellbound beholding the architecture of the temple and the quaint charm of its ambience. Systematic Puja arrangements and Prasad offerings (in varieties) and their proper distribution among all and sundry seem to be a hallmark of the place dating back to antiquity. Just as in case of the Maa Tarini temple, here too there are shops selling Puja paraphernalia.

As dusk was fast approaching, Priyo and Manisha hurriedly secured the Puja items and rushed inside the sanctum- where a priest performed the Puja on their behalf, seeking their well being. The smell of burning camphor, the fragrance of sandalwood and incense and the lights of flickering earthen lamps illuminating the sanctum and the awe-inspiring image of the two-armed Goddess Biraja slaying the evil Buffalo Demon Mahishasura- filled their existences with a sense of pure bliss.

The Biraja Temple at Jajpur

This site is esteemed as a Shakti Peeth i.e. a place where an organ of the Mother Goddess incarnate Sati had fallen (in this case the naval) upon the self-immolation of the Goddess and subsequent events leading to the cutting and dissipation of Her body parts. The exact place where the organ had fallen is referred to as Nabhigaya. Yet another legend however suggests that it is the navel of the Asura Gaya that had fallen at this place with Lord Vishnu’s grace. It is said that any person who offers Pinda (boiled rice offering with black sesame seeds- made into balls) here can ensure the Mokshya or salvation of twenty generations of his ancestors. The zeal among the devout to carry out the concerned rituals can be observed especially during Pitri Paksha i.e. the fortnight when the moon wanes just before Durga Puja.

Here too there is a ‘wishing tree’- on the branches of which devotees tie holy threads with decorations while making wishes, and pray for the granting of such wishes. Within the temple complex there is also a Bagalamukhi Mandir (temple dedicated to Goddess Bagalamukhi- a special fearsome manifestation of the Mother Goddess). Besides, there is a Shiva temple and a covered area housing 108 Shiva Lingams (phallic symbols of Lord Shiva in stone).

The special festivities of this temple ensue during the autumnal Durga Puja. During this time a Rathayatra of the presiding deity is also organized, whereby the image of the Goddess is seated in a chariot, which is pulled by devotees- just like that of Lord Jagannatha of Puri.

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The solemn ambience, the auspicious tinkling of the temple bells as the evening Aarti ritual commenced- with the backdrop of the crimson glow of twilight and the silhouette of the temple- these all- together with the myriad exhilarating experiences of their day-long escapade- coalesced into a concluding note of ultimate fulfillment. And it sealed the pledge of the couple to become united in the bond of everlasting love.               

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Odisha is renowned for its wondrous temples and beaches. The world famous majestic Jagannath Temple and other splendid temples at Puri, the grand ornate temples at Bhubaneswar, and the marvellous Sun Temple of Konarak attract countless tourists and pilgrims from all over the country, and also from abroad. Alongside, the fine beaches at Puri, Chandipur, Gopalpur-on-sea and Konarak figure importantly in the itinerary of vacationers. However, tripping to even some lesser known places of interest in the state proved to be satiating indeed for the inseparable duo who were seeking a bit of quietude and peace to enjoy cherished moments of togetherness and intimacy- in the midst of serene, beautiful and spiritually uplifting surroundings. And all the while they managed to evade being thronged by the maddening crowd.

Many a couple weary of their humdrum existences in urban surrounds (especially those in the cities and towns of south Bengal and Odisha) and seeking solace may rightly follow in the footsteps of Priyobrata and Manisha. They can plan their outing accordingly, and preferably lodge at some hotel at Jajpur-Keonjhar Road for a day or two (perhaps a weekend), and visit such less crowded but impeccably beautiful and revered destinations…and get to treasure memorable joyful experiences.

Getting There: A number of trains like Jan Shatabdi Express (Bhubaneswar-Howrah-Bhubaneswar) and Dhauli Express in the Kharagpur-Bhadrak-Bhubaneswar route stop over at Jajpur-Keonjhar Road station. From outside the station complex vehicles can be hired for all the destinations described above and also for sightseeing.

 Staying: It is best to seek accommodation at Jajpur-Keonjhar Road. There are a number of hotels here offering quality food and lodging (Hotel Bhimsen Palace, Hotel Maa and Hotel Avinandan, among others, cater to the requirements of tourists with different budgets). These are all located within walking distance of the station.