Footprints of Tagore in the Darjeeling Hills

In one of his famous compositions, Kaviguru Rabindranath Tagore had mused:

“When my footprints will no more fall on this (familiar) path…” (“Jakhan porbe na mor payer chinho ei bate…”)

Well, though over half a century has passed since footprints of this polymath and luminary have ceased to fall on this earth, yet those left behind during his illustrious lifetime, have been engraved in gold in the hearts of his devotees!

Tagore had left his footprints at some places in and around the “queen of hills”- Darjeeling too. For ardent followers and admirers of Tagore, various places in the world famous tourist destinations in Darjeeling hills can also be designated as spots of attraction comprised in a Tagore pilgrimage circuit or Rabi-tirtha-parikrama.

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Not only had the Nobel Laureate visited the places or stayed there, many of the bard’s timeless creations had also been composed with him being inspired by these places in the hills of Darjeeling.

Pagla Jhora: This is a stream near Kurseong, lying beside the Hill Cart Road leading to Kurseong from Siliguri, the cascading waters of which had inspired the Bard of Bengal to pen one of his finest plays titled ‘Muktadhara’ in 1922. In the very same year, the poet translated it in English, which was published with the title ‘The Waterfall’. He described the play as “a representation of the concrete psychology”.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railways’ toy train tracks also passes over this gurgling stream en route to from Siliguri to Kurseong. The Jhora is the source of the water for the river Mahananda that flows past Siliguri town.

The train was the preferred mode of travel between the plains and the Darjeeling and Kurseong towns during Tagore’s times. Though moving quite slowly compared to cars, yet it is a different experience to board the toy train- as it chugs along at a leisurely pace passing by various tea gardens, crossing the Himalayan terrain. This has been given a World Heritage Site status by UNESCO. Panoramic views of the glistening, snowy peaks of the Kanchenjungha Range can be captured from various points along the trail of the toy train. A recent popular Hindi film song incorporated the following words in local Gorkhali/Nepali language that best capture the thrill and joy (especially of children) of taking a ride in the toy train:

“Kasto mazza hai relaima,
          Ramailo ukali oraali”
(roughly translated: great fun it is to be in the train, joyously going up and down through the hills)

Casselton, Darjeeling: Casselton, presently a hostel for the students of Darjeeling Government College, had at a time been booked for stay of the Viswakavi, supposedly at a monthly rent of Rs. 243! During his stay, the poet would recite poems of Tennyson and Browning among others, at this place. Many of his own poems were also composed here.

There is a debate as to where Tagore would stay during most of his visits to Darjeeling town. While many scholars believe that he used to stay at Woodlands, near the Chowrasta-Mall, others believe it was at Ashantulli (the right location of this place cannot be ascertained now).

            The Mall, the most happening hangout in Darjeeling, was a haunt for Tagore too. The place teems with visitors always- who check out the many souvenir shops, eateries, book shops, woolen garments’ stores- all around here, and facilities for other recreational activities. There are also a large number of ornate benches laid here for people to laze. One can also take a stroll around the Mall to feel the pulse of Darjeeling.

Tagore had come to Darjeeling, in the lap of the Himalayas, with a desire for securing solitude at the back of his mind. However, here too he had become surrounded with so many people that he had begun to feel a tad disappointed. Nevertheless, the bard soon had a change of mind and began to enjoy the company of the people coming to him, as always.

As per records, Tagore last came to Darjeeling town on 27^th April 1933. In a letter written during this visit (written on the 13^th May 1933) to granddaughter-like Hemantabala Devi, Tagore writes: "Cabbages and various vegetables are abundant here. Fruits however, seems to be a bit elusive. Flowers are everywhere. The days are cold and the sun almost seems to play hide and seek with us". All these hold true even today as it was nearly a century ago, and will perhaps remain as such till eternity!

Gymkhana Club, Darjeeling: Before he parted from Darjeeling in 1933, Tagore was felicitated by the prestigious Gymkhana Club of the town, and a seminar was organized on the occasion- where the poet recited many of his Bengali and English poems.

This club established in 1909, is prominently located above the Mall Road. It has been learnt that if a visitor wishes, (s)he can also become a temporary member of the club during the stay in Darjeeling, and enjoy the club facilities- all the while experiencing a legacy!

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Kurseong, the place of the White Orchid (as its name means in local Lepcha language), had also been visited by Tagore. It is learnt that some of his timeless creations were written here too. Tagore’s name figures importantly in the list of esteemed guests who stayed at the Selim Hill Tea Bungalow in Kurseong.

Today, large iron gates lead to this heritage bungalow, which is surrounded by a beautiful garden. Splendid views of the Balasun river valley below can be got from here too, and sounds of many kinds of birds can also be heard.

Renovation work is carried out from time to time in this 150 year old bungalow. However, the estate and its surrounds together have also been reported to generate an eerie feeling in the minds of the visitors.

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During his last years, Tagore mostly visited Kalimpong and Mungpoo in the hills. On his visits to Kalimpong, the poet used to stay at Gouripur House.

Gouripur House, Kalimpong:This House/Lodge, is located at a distance of about 2 km from Kalimpong town towards Durpin Dara.
          The poet first came here on 25^th April 1938 and Zamindar Brojendra Kishore Roy Chowdhury of Gouripur (a small district town of Mymensingh in present-day Bangladesh) made the arrangements for the boarding and lodging of the poet at this place. This was a place surrounded by various trees and having an especially calm and peaceful atmosphere beside the hills, which fulfilled the poets’s craving for such a place.

The enthusiastic local people had also once arranged for the birthday celebration of Tagore here. Maitreyee Devi, protégé of Tagore and the famous writer of ‘Na Hanyate’, came here during the time from nearby Mungpoo and insisted the poet to write a new poem. Thus, the famous poem ‘Janmadin’ came up. It was from here that on 25^th April 1940 Tagore had recited his poem “Janmadin” for broadcast on All India Radio. It had been facilitated through a telephone system installed in this house, linked with the All India Radio, located in Kolkata. The programme became a great success.

Several other poems of Tagore (‘Maya’, ‘Namkaran’, ‘Upohar’, ‘Jalsansar’) were also written during his stays in this House. The poet had reportedly planted two camphor trees here by his own hands, at one corner of the garden, and he used to water them daily in the mornings and in the evenings.

The house, a two-storeyed one, though not in a very good condition today still stands testimony to those cherished times.

Kalimpong is a picturesque hill station. The nearby Deolo vantage point offers magnificent views of this town together with those of the snowy peaks of Kanchenjunga and other mountains, and the Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim and a major part of North Bengal, flowing in the valley below with its emerald green waters.

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Mungpoo: Tagore had a long association with the tiny hamlet 35 km east of Darjeeling town (in the Kurseong sub-division) named Mungpoo. He first came to Mungpoo on 21^st May 1938, upon invitation from Maitreyee Devi, who was wife of the eminent Quintologist Dr. Manmohan Sen.
         Tagore fell in love with this place right from the time he set his foot here. The verdant tea gardens, orchid nurseries and cinchona plantations together with clear gurgling streams added to the beauty of this place. Presently too the place retains its quaint charm.

An account of the days spent by Tagore with her family had been recorded by Maitreyee Devi (who herself also was a renowned poet and novelist of the times) in her book ‘Mongpute Rabindranath’. The English translation of this book is named ‘Tagore by The Fire Side’.

The bungalow where the poet stayed has now been converted into a museum by the government. It has been named Rabindra Bhavan. Several priceless memoirs related with the poet are on display here- Tagore’s original artworks, his handwritten documents and old photographs, among others.

The museum also displays furniture that had been designed by Tagore and carved by his son, Rathindranath Tagore.

The Rabindra Bhavan at Mungpoo may be deemed to be the culminating point of the Tagore pilgrimage circuit or Rabi-tirtha-parikrama in the hills.

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As in Tagore’s times, during the most part of the year, the soothing nature of the misty Darjeeling hills continues to beckon travellers weary from warmer climes. 

And indeed, solace is got right upon arrival here! Now if the places associated with Tagore’s celebrated life form part of the tourist’s itinerary, then the visit can become all the more rewarding, particularly for Tagore buffs.

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         It is through the footfalls of millions of his admirers- set on a mission to trace and venerate Tagore’s footprints around the world- that perhaps the bard’s philosophical remark- “….(Yet) the same me will come and go eternally…” (“Asbo jabo chirodiner shei ami”)- be rightly realized.