Celebrating the Homeland

“Country roads, take me home
To the place I belong…..
Take me home, down country roads”

                -Went the lyrics of the John Denver song that Gargi Bose started listening to- with earphones plugged in- being played on the FM app of her mobile, as she ascended the stairs leading to the security checking area of the Bagdogra Airport, boarding pass of her flight to Bangalore in hand.

                Ms. Bose, a senior manager of an ace pharmaceutical company, had flown in to Bagdogra just a day earlier to attend a special business conference with the key area managers of the concern’s eastern zone- held at Mainak Tourist Lodge, Siliguri, in the evening. She was a Bangalore based person, who had moved in to the city in 2002 post her marriage to Mr. Arnab Bose, who worked as a superintendent in a P.S.U. there. 

The words of the song struck a chord- it was the very song that she as a teenager loved listening to, while being a school student in the 1990s. Though the singer had longed for his own country home in the song, it made Gargi yearn for the country home that she knew- her ancestral home at Andul.

***********************************************************

Gargi’s parents used to stay in Calcutta for her father’s job and her schooling at South Point. However, their ancestral home in the countryside at Andul frequently turned out to be their destination for spending the weekend. In that country home, resided Gargi’s paternal grandparents together with her uncle, his wife and his son Satya, who was a year older than Gargi and studied at a local high school. 

                Those were times that “tripped by on rosy wings”. All the joyous festivals and rites typical to a Bengali household used to be observed at their Andul home with great pomp and gaiety, and with the family always being together on such occasions. The quintessential ‘baro mashe tero parbon’ (the thirteen festive occasions in the twelve months of the year) were celebrated thoroughly, together with some more. Gargi used to keenly observe and follow with immense interest- the rituals of the festivals, the recipes of the delicacies being made on such occasions, the traditional attire being put on by the men and the women, and everything else associated with the festivals. 

                With time, however, the pursuance of higher education towards building of a career and similar other compulsions took predominance over such tender joys- in the lives of both Gargi and her cousin Satya. Satya, went for doing an M.C.A. from K.I.I.T., Odisha, while Gargi choose to take up B. Pharma from Jadavpur University, Calcutta.  Soon after completion of the B. Pharma course, her parents convinced Gargi to marry Arnab, the groom they had seen for her. Thereafter, a new life awaited Gargi at Bangalore. 

                In the meantime, Gargi’s grandparents passed away and her uncle too shifted to Calcutta (now rechristened as Kolkata) with his wife. The family finally sold out the land and home at Andul- albeit with a heavy heart, owing to increasing difficulties in managing the property. So, Kolkata was the only paternal home for Gargi now. The country home was no more!

************************************************************

                It was the first day of October 2019. Durga Puja, the biggest annual festival of the region, was just a few days to go. The distinctive fragrance of the ‘shiuli’ (night-flowering jasmine- also known as ‘parijat’) flowers, which grow in abundance and signal the advent of autumn in eastern India, wafted to Gargi’s nostrils. The setting up of pandals on the roadside and the sight of ‘dhaakis’ (professional drum beaters) standing at bus stops with their ‘dhaaks’ (traditionally decorated drums)- as seen on her way to the airport- had reminded her of the upcoming festival. Musing that though the divine ‘daughter’ Uma can visit her paternal home with her children for at least four days during autumn, not all daughters of the land are as fortunate, she sighed.

Just upon reaching the top of the flight of stairs leading to the security checking area of the Bagdogra airport, a placard placed there caught her attention. It read: ‘Esho esho aamar ghor e esho aamar ghor e’ (a line from Tagore imploring- “Come, come ye to my home, my very own home”).  It was part of an enterprise of the Department of Tourism, Government of West Bengal to beckon travellers en route to various destinations to contemplate making visits to places of attraction in the state. And quite nearby was a store that displayed interesting traditional artefacts related to rural Bengal. It was the ‘Biswa Bangla’ showroom. This was an endeavour of the Government of West Bengal to showcase handcrafted heritage products from the state for connoisseurs of the world today. The interesting bright and colourful artefacts on display- showcased at the store immediately caught Gargi’s attention. Finding that she had some time in hand, she decided to walk into the store. 

The offerings at the store indeed echoed the heartbeat of Bengal- via its art, craft and culture. Visitors/connoisseurs coming in can verily get connected to the lives of the people of the land and their myriad expressions simply by browsing over the items on offer. What is more welcoming is that while the products retain the deep-rooted elements of the state’s heritage, yet they are strategically developed or slightly modified thoughtfully- to suit the contemporary requirements, tastes and preferences. 

At the showroom were dolls from various parts of the state, ‘dokra’ handicrafts, traditional household metal utensils including Puja/worship paraphernalia, muslin products including handkerchiefs, dhotis, boxer pants, bed sheets, and apparel for men and women. The Carmichael Rumal, a handkerchief made of Murshidabad silk- a product being revived- was also there on display! Besides, attractive packets and boxes of the world famous flavourful Darjeeling tea were there. There were also masks made by craftsmen of various districts of the state- mainly of various gods/demigods. The aroma of the collection of attar- perfumes unique to the state- mesmerized Gargi.  

Finding bottles of the cherished mustard sauce or ‘kasundi’ on the shelves of the showroom made Gargi feel nostalgic. She remembered how her grandmother used to prepare this item at home, quite painstakingly, during the auspicious period of Akshay Tritiya in summer- using raw mangoes, mustard seeds etc. as ingredients. This was something she missed quite dearly now, in a faraway land.  Also available in the store was special honey sourced from the forests of the Sunderbans. 

Gargi found to her surprise that packets of ‘Gobindobhog rice’ were also there on the shelves. This lustrous, short grained, aged, fragrant rice variety of Bengal favoured by the mortals and (presumably) immortals alike, has been a quintessential element of all festivals. In an instant her mind went back to the days when festivals/Pujas in her home at Andul would just be unthinkable without the rice. And the most coveted preparation made using the rice would be payesh- a sweet rice pudding typically included in every celebration.  Payesh made with the savoury nolen gur (liquid date palm jaggery) available during the winters would taste heavenly, she reminisced. Just then, some brightly coloured tubes stocked on a shelf caught her attention. And, lo, it was the very delicious nolen gur that she longed for- packaged in special toothpaste-style tubes, which increased its shelf-life greatly- making it available round the year!

Further, in the showroom, copies of CDs and esteemed literary works of the celebrated musicians/singers/writers/poets/thinkers of the land of Bengal- down the ages- were also available. Gargi had been an avid reader and quickly picked up some books of contemporary authors- of her choice. Such books in her native language just could not easily be procured from elsewhere. 

Overjoyed and bewitched at getting to check out and buy from the wide variety of quality offerings here, Gargi left the store after purchasing many a thing to her heart’s content. The encountering of the showroom seemed nothing short of an opportunity bestowed by providence to her, and thus had to be made the best use of!

                With all the ‘bounties’ collected, the weight of her hand baggage might have increased by a few kilograms, however, the feeling of heaviness that had developed in her heart at being unable to be at her home during the festive season yet one more time, felt significantly reduced! After all, she would not be missing on the celebrations during the festival this year! While her people would be ecstatically observing the Pujas some twelve hundred miles away, she too would be celebrating in her own way, with great fervour- celebrating her homeland in its entirety- thoroughly savouring the land’s cherishes! 

                Gargi went ahead to enter the security check area for boarding- while spontaneously reciting from a work of esteemed poet Jibananda Das- “Aabar aashibo phire….ei Banglay”, pledging to return….to this (beloved) land of Bengal- her homeland.

                                                                                                                                              

Footprints of Tagore in the Darjeeling Hills

In one of his famous compositions, Kaviguru Rabindranath Tagore had mused:

“When my footprints will no more fall on this (familiar) path…” (“Jakhan porbe na mor payer chinho ei bate…”)

Well, though over half a century has passed since footprints of this polymath and luminary have ceased to fall on this earth, yet those left behind during his illustrious lifetime, have been engraved in gold in the hearts of his devotees!

Tagore had left his footprints at some places in and around the “queen of hills”- Darjeeling too. For ardent followers and admirers of Tagore, various places in the world famous tourist destinations in Darjeeling hills can also be designated as spots of attraction comprised in a Tagore pilgrimage circuit or Rabi-tirtha-parikrama.

************************************************************

Not only had the Nobel Laureate visited the places or stayed there, many of the bard’s timeless creations had also been composed with him being inspired by these places in the hills of Darjeeling.

Pagla Jhora: This is a stream near Kurseong, lying beside the Hill Cart Road leading to Kurseong from Siliguri, the cascading waters of which had inspired the Bard of Bengal to pen one of his finest plays titled ‘Muktadhara’ in 1922. In the very same year, the poet translated it in English, which was published with the title ‘The Waterfall’. He described the play as “a representation of the concrete psychology”.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railways’ toy train tracks also passes over this gurgling stream en route to from Siliguri to Kurseong. The Jhora is the source of the water for the river Mahananda that flows past Siliguri town.

The train was the preferred mode of travel between the plains and the Darjeeling and Kurseong towns during Tagore’s times. Though moving quite slowly compared to cars, yet it is a different experience to board the toy train- as it chugs along at a leisurely pace passing by various tea gardens, crossing the Himalayan terrain. This has been given a World Heritage Site status by UNESCO. Panoramic views of the glistening, snowy peaks of the Kanchenjungha Range can be captured from various points along the trail of the toy train. A recent popular Hindi film song incorporated the following words in local Gorkhali/Nepali language that best capture the thrill and joy (especially of children) of taking a ride in the toy train:

“Kasto mazza hai relaima,
          Ramailo ukali oraali”
(roughly translated: great fun it is to be in the train, joyously going up and down through the hills)

Casselton, Darjeeling: Casselton, presently a hostel for the students of Darjeeling Government College, had at a time been booked for stay of the Viswakavi, supposedly at a monthly rent of Rs. 243! During his stay, the poet would recite poems of Tennyson and Browning among others, at this place. Many of his own poems were also composed here.

There is a debate as to where Tagore would stay during most of his visits to Darjeeling town. While many scholars believe that he used to stay at Woodlands, near the Chowrasta-Mall, others believe it was at Ashantulli (the right location of this place cannot be ascertained now).

            The Mall, the most happening hangout in Darjeeling, was a haunt for Tagore too. The place teems with visitors always- who check out the many souvenir shops, eateries, book shops, woolen garments’ stores- all around here, and facilities for other recreational activities. There are also a large number of ornate benches laid here for people to laze. One can also take a stroll around the Mall to feel the pulse of Darjeeling.

Tagore had come to Darjeeling, in the lap of the Himalayas, with a desire for securing solitude at the back of his mind. However, here too he had become surrounded with so many people that he had begun to feel a tad disappointed. Nevertheless, the bard soon had a change of mind and began to enjoy the company of the people coming to him, as always.

As per records, Tagore last came to Darjeeling town on 27^th April 1933. In a letter written during this visit (written on the 13^th May 1933) to granddaughter-like Hemantabala Devi, Tagore writes: "Cabbages and various vegetables are abundant here. Fruits however, seems to be a bit elusive. Flowers are everywhere. The days are cold and the sun almost seems to play hide and seek with us". All these hold true even today as it was nearly a century ago, and will perhaps remain as such till eternity!

Gymkhana Club, Darjeeling: Before he parted from Darjeeling in 1933, Tagore was felicitated by the prestigious Gymkhana Club of the town, and a seminar was organized on the occasion- where the poet recited many of his Bengali and English poems.

This club established in 1909, is prominently located above the Mall Road. It has been learnt that if a visitor wishes, (s)he can also become a temporary member of the club during the stay in Darjeeling, and enjoy the club facilities- all the while experiencing a legacy!

************************************************************

Kurseong, the place of the White Orchid (as its name means in local Lepcha language), had also been visited by Tagore. It is learnt that some of his timeless creations were written here too. Tagore’s name figures importantly in the list of esteemed guests who stayed at the Selim Hill Tea Bungalow in Kurseong.

Today, large iron gates lead to this heritage bungalow, which is surrounded by a beautiful garden. Splendid views of the Balasun river valley below can be got from here too, and sounds of many kinds of birds can also be heard.

Renovation work is carried out from time to time in this 150 year old bungalow. However, the estate and its surrounds together have also been reported to generate an eerie feeling in the minds of the visitors.

************************************************************

During his last years, Tagore mostly visited Kalimpong and Mungpoo in the hills. On his visits to Kalimpong, the poet used to stay at Gouripur House.

Gouripur House, Kalimpong:This House/Lodge, is located at a distance of about 2 km from Kalimpong town towards Durpin Dara.
          The poet first came here on 25^th April 1938 and Zamindar Brojendra Kishore Roy Chowdhury of Gouripur (a small district town of Mymensingh in present-day Bangladesh) made the arrangements for the boarding and lodging of the poet at this place. This was a place surrounded by various trees and having an especially calm and peaceful atmosphere beside the hills, which fulfilled the poets’s craving for such a place.

The enthusiastic local people had also once arranged for the birthday celebration of Tagore here. Maitreyee Devi, protégé of Tagore and the famous writer of ‘Na Hanyate’, came here during the time from nearby Mungpoo and insisted the poet to write a new poem. Thus, the famous poem ‘Janmadin’ came up. It was from here that on 25^th April 1940 Tagore had recited his poem “Janmadin” for broadcast on All India Radio. It had been facilitated through a telephone system installed in this house, linked with the All India Radio, located in Kolkata. The programme became a great success.

Several other poems of Tagore (‘Maya’, ‘Namkaran’, ‘Upohar’, ‘Jalsansar’) were also written during his stays in this House. The poet had reportedly planted two camphor trees here by his own hands, at one corner of the garden, and he used to water them daily in the mornings and in the evenings.

The house, a two-storeyed one, though not in a very good condition today still stands testimony to those cherished times.

Kalimpong is a picturesque hill station. The nearby Deolo vantage point offers magnificent views of this town together with those of the snowy peaks of Kanchenjunga and other mountains, and the Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim and a major part of North Bengal, flowing in the valley below with its emerald green waters.

************************************************************

Mungpoo: Tagore had a long association with the tiny hamlet 35 km east of Darjeeling town (in the Kurseong sub-division) named Mungpoo. He first came to Mungpoo on 21^st May 1938, upon invitation from Maitreyee Devi, who was wife of the eminent Quintologist Dr. Manmohan Sen.
         Tagore fell in love with this place right from the time he set his foot here. The verdant tea gardens, orchid nurseries and cinchona plantations together with clear gurgling streams added to the beauty of this place. Presently too the place retains its quaint charm.

An account of the days spent by Tagore with her family had been recorded by Maitreyee Devi (who herself also was a renowned poet and novelist of the times) in her book ‘Mongpute Rabindranath’. The English translation of this book is named ‘Tagore by The Fire Side’.

The bungalow where the poet stayed has now been converted into a museum by the government. It has been named Rabindra Bhavan. Several priceless memoirs related with the poet are on display here- Tagore’s original artworks, his handwritten documents and old photographs, among others.

The museum also displays furniture that had been designed by Tagore and carved by his son, Rathindranath Tagore.

The Rabindra Bhavan at Mungpoo may be deemed to be the culminating point of the Tagore pilgrimage circuit or Rabi-tirtha-parikrama in the hills.

************************************************************

As in Tagore’s times, during the most part of the year, the soothing nature of the misty Darjeeling hills continues to beckon travellers weary from warmer climes. 

And indeed, solace is got right upon arrival here! Now if the places associated with Tagore’s celebrated life form part of the tourist’s itinerary, then the visit can become all the more rewarding, particularly for Tagore buffs.

       ************************************************************
         It is through the footfalls of millions of his admirers- set on a mission to trace and venerate Tagore’s footprints around the world- that perhaps the bard’s philosophical remark- “….(Yet) the same me will come and go eternally…” (“Asbo jabo chirodiner shei ami”)- be rightly realized.

Reminiscing an Ideal Training Programme with Tour

Nowadays, owing to various constraints, it is not often when young minds engaged in a vocation get an opportunity to receive formal tutelage from seasoned associates of their profession. Rookies are more liable to be left to learn ‘on the job’. However, for us- Auditors of Co-operative Societies posted in the districts of North Bengal- it was our good fortune that the Directorate of Co-operative Audit, West Bengal had organized a five days’ Residential Training Programme for us in June 2015 at the Centre for Co-operative Management (C.C.M.) at Jalpaiguri. The programme turned out to be an enlightening and gratifying experience for all participants. 

Upon formal inauguration of the programme, the C.C.M. faculty in charge led us towards getting introduced to the co-operative structure in West Bengal. Alongside, he clarified about the process of addressing the very many issues that we have been coming across while being on the work for some time. In his inimitable and interesting presentation style, he made sure that the useful information passed down to us did not end up being (as he would say) ‘here and there but not in the ear (and the brain)’. 

This was followed by the lunch session and then our trainer for the next session took up the subject of Basic Accounting procedure of Co-op. Societies for discussion. 

***********************************************************************************

Trainees Interacting During a Meal

Lunches and other meals at the training centre were joyful times we all looked forward to. These were the times of filling in- our stomachs as well as our minds- with refreshing inputs. The authorities made endeavours to bring about variety in the menu offered at mealtimes. At such times, we could get the opportunity to reach out to our confreres from various districts and interact with them.

***********************************************************************************

 In his training sessions extending till the lunch break of the second day, our trainer took us through the entire sequence of preparation of accounts of co-operative societies. He bestowed upon us the crux of his collected knowledge and experience gained over his years in fruitful service- as regards the nitty-gritty of an auditor’s task. 

Post-lunch the trainer for the next session took up for discussion the subject of accounting of Societies other than P.A.C.S. (Primary Agricultural Co-operative Societies). He enumerated and explained the various steps involved in such accounting procedure, and highlighted his personal take on various potentially challenging situations that may emerge while auditing of such accounts- as gained from experience.

All the while we had been following the informative manual that had been provided to us, which was prepared keeping-in with the particular modules of our training. Our trainers were all available for discussion during all sessions together with representatives from the Directorate- who were often adding-on to the knowledge imparted by the particular trainer of the session. Queries and doubts put up by trainees were listened to patiently by the trainers and suitable answers/clarifications provided in all cases. The trainers elucidated the approaches to adopt to tackle the various tricky situations that auditors may have to confront.

***********************************************************************************

The third day of the training was a special day for us. This was the day allotted for the conduction of a study tour. It was tantamount to a day of outing for us- in the wondrous locales of the Terai region of North Bengal.  

A bus had been hired to take our group for the study tour. We crossed the Teesta River, the lifeline of Sikkim and also a major part of North Bengal, to arrive at a Primary Agricultural Co-operative Society of the Jalpaiguri Range, which was chosen to conduct our account-study. The books of accounts of the society were being satisfactorily maintained, though few suggestions for improvement were offered by the auditors poring over the books and documents kept.

Thereafter, as an added touring enterprise, our bus sped towards Jaigaon- a bustling town lying at the Indo-Bhutanese border, nestled at the base of the foothills of the Himalayas, just beside the picturesque Bhutanese town of Phuntsholing.  

En route we crossed the Jaldhaka river, and various settlements of the Terai—Dooars region. The sight of the gate of the Jaldapara National Park created a ruckus among the group, and the bus driver had to oblige to the collective pressure built to halt there for a while. Taking snaps with models of wild animals, which are the attractions of the park- as set up at the entrance of the national park- was a coveted joy indeed!!!

As it came to be revealed to us- the Indo-Bhutan border (denoted by a splendid gate done up flaunting traditional Bhutanese art and architecture) at Jaigaon served as a boundary of not only two different countries, but also of two very contrasting peoples and cultures. A large, busy commercial centre of the Indian state of West Bengal lay on one side pf the border, and a quiet, orderly (though commercially active) town of the ‘Land of The Thunder Dragon’ lay on the other. 

The Gateway to Bhutan

Our bus was allowed to venture into Bhutanese territory for a short distance without mandating any special permit. Thus, we could make it to the Karbandi Goemba- a Bhutanese monastery lying at an elevation, which provided many vantage points- offering breathtaking views of Phuntsholing town, Jaigaon town- with the Torsa river meandering and flowing along, and the Bengal plains beyond. 

Breathtaking Vistas From A Vantage Point

Views From Viewpoint

The Royal Residence

Lush gardens surround the monastery and the royal residence lying in the campus.  Occupying centrestage is a temple housing large, impressive statues of the Bhutanese deities of Shakyamuni Buddha and others. In the garden there are also eight different Buddhist stupas/chortens. 

The Temple and Stupas

Post lunch at an eatery at Jaigaon, some members of our group went into a buying spree- as appliances/other household products are often available at attractive prices here upon bargain. Thereafter, our return journey commenced.  All the while we were recounting the myriad joys of the day. 

***********************************************************************************

The fourth day’s session took off with delving into the methodology of Common Accounting System (C.A.S.) being implemented on the Primary Agricultural Co-operative Societies (P.A.C.S.). The procedural aspects of getting a Society’s accounts through via the Cash Account cum Trial Balance method were lucidly explained by the trainer.  

The second half of the day commenced with the taking up for discussion of the subject of C.R.A.R. and other ratios involved in evaluating the position of P.A.C.S.-s. Thereafter, C.C.M. faculty in charge lectured on the Co-operative Acts and Rules.  

On the fifth and final day of the training, the day’s prime discussion concerned the issue of accounting of Non Performing Assets (N.P.A.-s) while preparation of accounts of co-operative societies. The proper categorization of these assets and weightage to be accorded on such bases was explained. Our trainer took care to ensure that all doubts arising about the issues discussed were suitably clarified.

The formal conclusion of the training session of the last day, with an interactive session and valediction, rendered us free to explore the surrounds of our training centre and more- in the town of Japaiguri. 

A short stroll from the C.C.M. led us to the famous Rajbari of Jalpaiguri with its lofty, majestic gate. There was also the Rajbari Dighi- a large lake of tranquil waters lying amidst beautiful locales, with two small old temples located near its banks. 

The 'Rajbari' (above) and 'Rajbari Dighi' (below)

We would have loved to explore more of the treasures of the place, but we were in a haste to pack up and prepare ourselves to return to our respective places of work- as had been scheduled. 

Thus, we parted to our respective ranges of work while taking along many a word of advice to aid us in our field of work,  and cherished memories of a wonderful time spent amidst the camaraderie of our fellow co-operative brethren and associates.